Cagnes-sur-Mer (Cagnes-sur-Mer) and Cros-de-Cagnes
Cagnes-sur-Mer is one of the most popular resort towns on the French Riviera, located between Nice and Antibes, just 6 kilometers from Nice International Airport. The town was a beloved retreat of the famous Impressionist painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir, who spent his final years here.
Much like the Roman god Janus, the town has two faces. Cagnes-sur-Mer consists of a modern center and two distinct areas: “Upper Cagnes” (Le Haut-de-Cagnes) and “Cros-de-Cagnes.” Situated on a hill in the “suburbs” of Nice, Le Haut-de-Cagnes is one of the most authentic and picturesque spots on the Riviera, with its winding, steep streets and ancient houses, dominated by the medieval Château Grimaldi from the 13th-14th centuries. Naomi Barry of The New York Times once wrote that the château “crowns the hilltop covered with blue cypresses like a village in an Italian Renaissance painting.” At the base of the hill lies the old fishing port and the rapidly developing beach resort of Cros-de-Cagnes. This area features a 4-kilometer-long pebbled beach with a promenade, numerous restaurants, and a preserved fishing harbor. A free shuttle bus operates between these two areas, connecting the bus station at the bottom of the hill to Haut-de-Cagnes. Additionally, a railway line from Cannes to Nice and a highway run through the town, linking the center of Cagnes-sur-Mer with the beach area of Cros-de-Cagnes.
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A Creative Haven
For many years, Le Haut-de-Cagnes attracted French literary figures, including Simone de Beauvoir, who wrote Les Mandarins here. The village also became a hub for artists—Renoir himself declared it “a place where I want to paint until the last day of my life.”
Beyond Renoir, who moved to Cagnes-sur-Mer to treat his arthritis and lived here until his death, many renowned artists, actors, and writers have made this town their home, including Raoul Dufy, Amedeo Modigliani, Victor Vasarely, Georges Simenon, Moise Kisling, Suzy Solidor, Félix Ziem, Tsuguharu Foujita, Willy Guggenheim, Yves Klein, Brigitte Bardot, Chaim Soutine, Maria Vassilieva, and many others. The Russian artist B. D. Grigoriev also lived and died in the villa “Borisella” in Cagnes-sur-Mer.
Attractions in Cagnes-sur-Mer
Key attractions include:
- Renoir’s estate, Les Collettes: Surrounded by olive trees, this estate is where Renoir spent his final years.
- The medieval Château Grimaldi in Le Haut-de-Cagnes: A historic monument offering stunning views and a glimpse into the area’s medieval past.
- The Cros-de-Cagnes district: Founded by Italian fishermen in the 19th century, this area is now a bustling beach resort with a charming fishing harbor.
Getting to Cagnes-sur-Mer
By Train
The Cagnes-sur-Mer SNCF station is located in the commercial area known as Cagnes-Ville on Avenue de la Gare. Two regional TER train routes stop here, running along the coast between Fréjus-Saint-Raphaël and Cannes, passing through Cagnes-sur-Mer to Nice, Monaco, Menton, and Ventimiglia. The train ride from Nice to Cagnes-sur-Mer takes about 14 minutes and costs €3.10. It’s even closer to Nice Airport: 7-9 minutes by train, with tickets costing only €2.10. The journey to Cannes takes 23-27 minutes, with tickets priced at €4.80.
By Bus
Buses from Nice and Cannes to Cagnes-sur-Mer stop in Cagnes-Ville and near Béal/Les Collettes, within walking distance of Cros-de-Cagnes. The bus routes are operated by the Lignes d’Azur network, with tickets costing €1.50. There is a free shuttle bus from Cagnes-Ville to Haut-de-Cagnes every 15 minutes from the Place du Général-de-Gaulle in the town center, providing easy access to the medieval part of Cagnes-sur-Mer.
By Car
If you’re driving, take the A8 motorway from any coastal town in Provence, and exit at CAGNES-SUR-MER/CROS-DE-CAGNES. Street parking in Cagnes-sur-Mer is zoned with time restrictions, and like most French towns, parking is only paid on weekdays and Saturdays during business hours, with a lunch break in between.
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Festivals in Cagnes-sur-Mer
In August, Cagnes-sur-Mer hosts a Medieval Festival (La Fête Médiévale de Cagnes) for two days, centered around Hauts-de-Cagnes. The festival features jousting tournaments, knightly exhibitions, and medieval costumes. Tickets for individual events range from €7 to €15 and can be purchased at the local tourist office.
Cagnes-sur-Mer and the Arts
Pierre-Auguste Renoir moved to Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1907 to treat his arthritis and spent the last years of his life here until his death in 1919. His former home is now a museum and remains one of the town’s main attractions.
By the late 1920s, Cagnes-sur-Mer had become a residence for many prominent American literary and artistic figures, such as Kay Boyle, George Antheil, and Harry and Caresse Crosby. The writer Georges Simenon (1903–1989), creator of the fictional detective Commissaire Jules Maigret, lived at 98, montée de la Bourgade during the 1950s with his third wife and three children; his initial “S” can still be seen in the wrought ironwork on the staircase. Parisian artist, poet, and philosopher Georges Charaire also had a home in Cagnes for many years, creating lithographs in a former studio of Paul Gauguin and co-founding the Theatre du Tertre in Montmartre. He kept his second home in Cagnes-sur-Mer until his death in 2001.
Belarusian-French artist Chaim Soutine painted powerful, whimsical landscapes of the South of France here. A friend of Amedeo Modigliani, Soutine left colorful landscapes of Cagnes in 1924. Fauvist painter Francisco Iturrino also lived in Cagnes-sur-Mer until his death. The town may have been an inspiration for Neo-Impressionist Henri-Edmond Cross (1856–1910), who painted “Cypresses in Cagnes” (1908).
Exploring Haut-de-Cagnes
Haut-de-Cagnes is the medieval center of the town, crowned by the Château Grimaldi and recognized as a historic monument since 1948. The quiet squares, labyrinthine alleys, and distance from the crowded lower town give Haut-de-Cagnes a village-like atmosphere. Over the past 100 years, many artists, including Modigliani, Renoir, and Soutine, have fallen in love with this quarter. Numerous art studios still testify to the presence of a thriving artistic community.
Cabaret singer, actor, and “the most painted woman in the world,” Suzy Solidor, established a nightclub in Haut-de-Cagnes in the 1960s. Today, this venue is known as Espace Solidor, hosting contemporary jewelry exhibitions.
Cagnes-sur-Mer offers a blend of rich history, artistic heritage, and natural beauty, making it a unique and captivating destination on the French Riviera. Whether exploring its medieval streets, enjoying its beaches, or immersing yourself in its creative atmosphere, Cagnes-sur-Mer provides a perfect escape into the heart of Provence.
Getting to Cagnes-sur-Mer:
Detailed Guide to Reaching Cagnes-sur-Mer
The Cagnes-sur-Mer SNCF train station is located in the Cagnes-Ville area (the more commercial part of town) on Avenue de la Gare. Two TER regional train routes stop here, traveling along the coast between Fréjus — Saint-Raphaël — Cannes via Cagnes-sur-Mer to Nice and from Cannes via Cagnes-sur-Mer to Nice, Monaco, Menton, and Ventimiglia.
- The train ride from Nice to Cagnes-sur-Mer takes about 14 minutes and costs €3.10.
- It’s even closer to Nice Airport: 7 — 9 minutes, with a ticket costing €2.10.
- The train to Cannes takes 23 — 27 minutes, with a ticket costing €4.80.
Buses to Cagnes-sur-Mer:
Buses from Nice and Cannes stop at Cagnes-Ville and Béal/Les Collettes, within walking distance of Cros-de-Cagnes. Buses are operated by www.lignesdazur.com, with a ticket price of €1.50. The bus route maps and schedules are available online.
In Cagnes-sur-Mer, you can take a free bus from Cagnes-Ville to Haut-de-Cagnes: a minibus departs every 15 minutes from Place du Général-de-Gaulle in central Cagnes-Ville to Haut-de-Cagnes.
If you’re driving, follow the A8 highway from any coastal town in Provence, and take the exit for CAGNES-SUR-MER/CROS-DE-CAGNES. Street parking in Cagnes-sur-Mer is divided into zones with time limits. As in most French cities, street parking is paid only on weekdays and Saturdays during business hours, with a break for lunch.
Free Buses within Cagnes-sur-Mer:
Bus 44 — to Haut-de-Cagnes:
- A free bus from the bus station (in central Cagnes-sur-Mer) to Haut-de-Cagnes. Runs daily, every 15 minutes from 7:00 AM to 10:30 PM (until 12:30 AM in July and August). This bus will take you to the medieval part of Cagnes-sur-Mer, near its museums and restaurants. Be aware that there might be transportation issues if LIGNE D’AZUR staff go on strike, as strikes are common in France.
Bus 45 — to the Beach:
- Free buses to the beach run only in July and August. Daily, every 30 minutes, from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM (to the port and beach).
Bus 57 (€1.50) from the SNCF station to Polygon Riviera:
- You can also take buses 56 and 400.
Parking in Cagnes-sur-Mer:
Street parking in Cagnes-sur-Mer is time-limited and is generally paid on weekdays and Saturdays during business hours, with a lunch break.
Festivals in Cagnes-sur-Mer:
Every August, Cagnes-sur-Mer hosts a two-day Medieval Festival (La Fête Médiévale de Cagnes), with Hauts-de-Cagnes as the focal point. The festival features jousting tournaments, medieval exhibitions, and performers dressed as knights, rogues, and maidens in period costumes. Tickets and information for the various events included in the festival are available for purchase at the local tourist office, with prices ranging from €7 to €15 for each event.
Sightseeing in Cagnes-sur-Mer
Cagnes-sur-Mer is a town rich in history and culture, offering many fascinating sites to explore.
Haut-de-Cagnes
Haut-de-Cagnes, also known as the Upper Town, is a medieval district located on a hill around the Grimaldi Castle. It has been a designated historical monument of France since 1948. The area features narrow, cobblestone streets, orange trees, and vibrant flowerbeds, creating a charming village atmosphere. The district has attracted many famous artists over the years, including Modigliani, Renoir, and Soutine, and today it is home to numerous art studios.
Grimaldi Castle (Château Grimaldi)
The main attraction in Haut-de-Cagnes is the Grimaldi Castle, originally built as a fortress in 1301. It was transformed into a luxurious castle in the 17th century and served as the residence of the Grimaldi royal family until the French Revolution. Today, the castle houses two museums: the Olive Tree Museum and the Mediterranean Modern Art Museum.
From the castle, visitors can enjoy stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea, Nice, and the Alps. Inside, the castle features monumental Baroque reception rooms and collections of works by artists such as Jean Cocteau and Kees van Dongen. The castle is also known for its trompe-l’oeil fresco, “The Fall of Phaeton.”
Visitor Information:
- Address: Place Grimaldi – 06800 Cagnes-sur-Mer
- Contact: +33 4 92 02 47 35, chateau@cagnes.fr
- Opening Hours:
- July and August: 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM
- September, April, May, and June: 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM
- October to March: 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM
- Closed on Tuesdays, January 1st, and December 25th.
- Ticket Prices:
- Adults (26 and over): €4
- Groups of 10 or more: €2 per person
- Free entry for visitors under 26, museum workers, and tourism professionals.
- Combined ticket (Grimaldi Castle + Renoir Museum): €8.
Getting There:
- By Car: Free parking is available under Place du Château, though spaces are limited. Paid parking is also available at Sainte-Anne and Planastel.
- By Bus: A free shuttle service (Line 44) runs from the central bus station to Haut-de-Cagnes every 15 minutes from 7:00 AM to 10:30 PM (from June 1st to September 30th, from 6:30 AM to 12:30 AM).
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Le Cros-de-Cagnes
Le Cros-de-Cagnes is a small fishing village with narrow streets and low-rise houses, located near the port. It can be easily overlooked amidst the modern development that has sprung up around it. In the early 19th century, Italian fishing families settled by the water in a marshy bay, sheltered from the eastern winds, thus founding Le Cros-de-Cagnes.
In 1866, the fishermen built the Chapelle de Saint-Pierre, dedicated to Saint Peter, who is considered the patron saint of fishermen.
Polygone Riviera
Polygone Riviera is a massive project, the result of a €350 million investment, covering an area of 70,000 square meters. The shopping complex opened in 2015 and is located to the northwest of Cagnes-sur-Mer. With its palm-lined boulevards, arcades, and landscaped gardens, this shopping center resembles a futuristic suburb.
The complex houses 150 stores, with a focus on fashion, as one would expect on the French Riviera. Additionally, it offers entertainment options including a 10-screen cinema, nearly 30 cafés and restaurants, and a casino that stays open until 4:00 AM daily.
Hippodrome de la Côte d’Azur
The Hippodrome de la Côte d’Azur is the main racetrack in the region and the second-largest in France, hosting events during both winter and summer seasons. The most prestigious races take place in winter.
The racetrack in Cagnes-sur-Mer has an advantage over those in northern France, as the “fibrous sand” surface remains stable during the colder season, allowing for high-quality flat racing.
The highlight of the year is the Grand Critérium de Vitesse de la Côte d’Azur, a race held in March that marks the end of the winter season. This race is open to horses aged four to ten and is classified as a Group I international competition. In 2016, the winner received €90,000.
